In spite of the fact that it was even hotter today than yesterday, I set out (this time much more confidently) on the S-Bahn and went out to the Topography Des Terrors, which is a museum/display housed in the same location where the SS headquarters used to be. It was a sobering combination of photos from the era as well as quotes from letters, diary entries, newspaper articles, etc. expressing the different points of view of those living through that period. What struck me in particular was not only how fervently a large percentage of Germany embraced Hitler and actively wanted to destroy the republic (they wanted to destroy democracy and have a single leader/father to rescue them instead), but also how utterly ruthless Hitler and his followers were in wiping out any opposition. They literally imprisoned, tortured, and killed anyone who dared speak out against them or had even the faintest affiliation or history of being affiliated with any group that didn't support Nazism. I've always wondered, as I'm sure many others have, just how such an ugly and brutal leadership gained so much power and had so many dedicated followers, and this place offered as much insight as is possible into something that, in some ways, will perhaps always remain a dark mystery. You can get a sense of it from some of the display photos below:
I started reading In the Garden of Beasts by Erik Larson on the flight over, which chronicles the experiences of the American Ambassador to Berlin and his family in the 1930s, and being here in this place and walk on the streets and see all these exhibits while I continue to read it has been an extraordinary experience. This particular sight had an historical 'bonus' in that one of the largest intact sections of the Berlin Wall borders the property.
After such a grim (albeit fascinating) morning, I headed over to the Berliner Dom, which is a gorgeous Protestant Cathedral built in the late 1800s, partially destroyed in a fire, and then rebuilt. I may have also stood in the path of the fountain spray.
Just across the street is the famous Museum Island, where several of Berlin's great museums are clustered. I didn't actually go into any of them, but I enjoyed taking in their impressive architecture and a glimpse of the Dom in the background.
From there, I joined the Robertsons at Andrea's parents' home for a traditional "Coffee and Cake" or Kaffee und Kuchen. The British equivalent is tea time. Germans do it with coffee and cake. This was also a celebration of Emma's ninth birthday, so the cakes were something to behold. I would have taken a picture of the two I tried (a strawberry cake and a caramelized almond cake), but I was too busy eating them. Andrea explained to me that all the others who were there (aside from the grandmothers and aunts) were families who had been friends with Andrea's parents since she was a little girl. As I watched all of them talking and laughing together, I couldn't help but marvel at what a rich and beautiful (and rare) thing it is for friendships to last that long and for families to literally grow up together in the same neighborhood and stay connected for so long. I think that's a lost world in so many ways, so it was refreshing and encouraging to see it in reality sitting in the back yard of the house where Andrea grew up.
Random tidbit of German culture that I learned this evening: it's customary for a person to go up to and individually greet everyone already at the party when they arrive, and that is also how they take their leave. More effort? yes. More personal? also yes.
Time to wind down for bed.
Tschüß! (Germany's informal 'bye!')
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